Traditional Markets And Batik: Both Markers Of Socio-Cultural Shifts
Traditional markets in Indonesia are places that have always witnessed the history of the development of a city. This place holds a collective memory of the development process of a city, so that each traditional market has its own unique and different meaning, identity, and history.
Until the term 'market' in Indonesian has quite a number of connotations, one of the oldest being as a jargon marker of social class. For example, a Bandung man of royal blood has been heard saying, "He is indeed a Sundanese, but he is not good because his mother is a market person." This sentence was spoken not in a condescending tone, but rather the fact that So-and-so's mother had merchant blood: a market person.
Display of various markets from time to time: the market in Solo (left), Kramat Jati main market (middle), the Papringan community initiative market (right)
Even from the 'market', the term 'sudagaran batik' or batik is commonly used by merchants. This batik has the characteristic of 'freedom' in decorative patterns, not a 'prohibited pattern' originating from the palace. Of course, the decorative patterns are 'crowded', the colors are varied, and usually inspired by everyday beauty that is close to the hearts of many people.
Traditional markets are actually a place for people from various socio-cultural backgrounds to exchange information and knowledge, so that the market always reflects the development of the surrounding residential area. Not infrequently markets in Indonesia change 'shape', such as the Balubur market in Bandung, which was initially a wet market and now is blended with student dorms because it is close to several universities, the Balubur market has turned into a stationery market.
The way people dress in the marketplace also signals movements in people's daily lives. In the past, when Indonesian women were still wearing batik in their daily activities, their clothes to the market seemed as if they were "identified". Batik with a dark color is worn for those who are married (bironan), white batik for those who are very old (putihan) and for teenage girls they wear a red tinge (bang-bangan).
The way people dress when they go to the market reflects changes in the lifestyle of nearby settlements.
Nowadays, it can be seen how the social conditions of the people of a place. Which is from the way people dress in the market and it is very clear that batik is no longer as an everyday clothes, if any, the batik which is worn is textile with decorative batik patterns, or known as printed batik. Just for the record, in Klewer Market (Solo) itself which is the center of batik in Indonesia, no one sells written batik, very few sell stamped batik, and the majority sell textiles with batik decorative patterns (printed).
Buyers and sellers in traditional markets.
Shifts in society always occur, traditional markets (if they still exist) are one of the most accurate places to observe, because they are the 'representative' of most people’s lifestyle. Seeing something that shifts until it sometimes disappears like batik, becomes a collective decision, will it be preserved or be left…?
Image Sources:
Fig 1, Market in Surakarta, Tropen Museum collection
Fig 2, Kramat Jati Main Market, Antara collection photo by Aprilio Akbar (2010)
Fig 3, Papringan Market, photo by Tara Sutrisno (2019)
Grb 4, Coconut Seller in Surakarta, photo by Ch Sj Dt Tumenggung (1953)
Fig 5, Market in Kerek, photo by Suherina Nimpoeno (2010)
Fig 6, Papringan Market, photo by Tara Sutrisno (2019)
Fig 7, Pecel seller at Rawakele Market, Kebumen, photo by Wibowo Djatmiko (2016)
Fig 8, Chef Going to Market, KITLV . collection
Fig 9, Market in Kerek, photo by Suherina Nimpoeno (2010)
Fig 10, Mayestik Market, photo by Lucky Pransiska (2014)
Bibliography:
Ekomadyo. Agus S, Tracing the Genius Loci of Traditional Markets as Urban Social Spaces in the Archipelago, ITB, 2012
Achjadi & Natanegara, Hand Loomed Fabric of Tuban, RW Publishing, 2010